# Spray Foam Guide

> Independent guidance for homeowners and builders deciding whether, where and how to use spray foam insulation. Published by Catalyst Digital Services LLC. Every figure in a guide names its source and the date it was checked; guides are updated as sources change.

Spray Foam Guide has 33 guides on spray foam insulation (types, costs, applications, comparisons, problems and safety, DIY, hiring and codes) and a directory of 1,527 spray foam contractors whose own websites we checked. Cost figures are national ranges from named sources, not quotes; keep the unit (per board foot vs per square foot) when quoting them. Directory listings are not endorsements; state licenses are shown only where matched in official license data, and insurance is not verified.

## About this site
- [Information for AI assistants](https://sprayfoamguide.com/ai-info/): what the site covers, how to read its cost figures and listings, and how to cite it.
- [Full text of every guide](https://sprayfoamguide.com/llms-full.txt): all guides as plain text with their sources.
- [Editorial policy](https://sprayfoamguide.com/editorial-policy/): sourcing, review, corrections, funding and use of AI tools.
- [How our listings work](https://sprayfoamguide.com/how-we-review-contractors/): how contractors are listed and what the labels mean.

## Foam types
- [Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation: R-Value, Benefits & Uses](https://sprayfoamguide.com/types/open-cell-spray-foam/): Open-cell spray foam is a low-density spray polyurethane foam, typically about 0.5 to 0.8 pounds per cubic foot, that expands to fill cavities, insulates, and at its tested thickness stops air leakage. The Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance puts typical products at R-3.6 to R-4.5 per inch. It stays soft, lets water vapor through and can absorb liquid water, so it is neither waterproofing nor a vapor barrier. It suits dry, above-grade walls, interior partitions and properly designed attic rooflines.
- [Closed Cell Spray Foam Insulation: R-Value, Cost & Uses](https://sprayfoamguide.com/types/closed-cell-spray-foam/): Closed-cell spray foam is a dense, rigid spray polyurethane foam, typically 1.8 to 2.3 pounds per cubic foot, that insulates and air-seals in one application. The Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance puts typical products at R-5.8 to R-6.9 per inch and under 1 perm at about 1.5 inches. It suits rim joists, some basement and crawl space walls, metal buildings and shallow cavities, but it costs more per board foot and can slow drying in the wrong roof or wall.
- [Open Cell vs Closed Cell Spray Foam: Which Is Better?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/types/open-cell-vs-closed-cell-spray-foam/): Both insulate and air-seal, but they are not interchangeable. Open-cell foam is softer, more vapor-permeable and usually cheaper per board foot, at about R-3.6 to R-4.5 per inch. Closed-cell foam is denser, gives about R-5.8 to R-6.9 per inch and slows water vapor at specified thicknesses. Open-cell suits dry, deep above-grade cavities with a sound vapor strategy; closed-cell suits limited depth and assemblies that need vapor control. Roof decks depend on climate and drying.
- [2 lb vs 0.5 lb Spray Foam: What's the Difference?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/types/2lb-vs-0-5lb-spray-foam/): 2 lb spray foam is medium-density closed-cell foam and 0.5 lb is low-density open-cell foam; the number is the approximate weight of a cubic foot of cured foam. Two-pound foam gives more R-value per inch (about R-5.8 to R-6.9, versus R-3.6 to R-4.5) and resists water vapor, while half-pound foam expands more, fills deep cavities and usually costs less. Choose by the wall or roof assembly, not the bigger number.

## Costs & calculator
- [How Much Does Spray Foam Insulation Cost in 2026?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/spray-foam-insulation-cost/): Spray foam is priced either per square foot of sprayed surface or per board foot (one square foot, one inch thick). HomeGuide's national range is $1.50 to $5.00 per treated square foot installed; Angi and HomeAdvisor give $0.60 to $1.60 per board foot for open-cell and $1.30 to $3.10 for closed-cell. The total depends on foam type, thickness, access, preparation and contractor minimums, which HomeGuide puts at $1,000 to $2,000 or more. The federal 25C tax credit no longer covers work placed in service after 2025.
- [Spray Foam Insulation Cost per Square Foot](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/spray-foam-insulation-cost-per-square-foot/): HomeGuide puts professionally installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot of sprayed surface: $1.50 to $3.50 for open-cell and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed-cell. Those ranges mix jobs of different thickness, so the price you pay depends mostly on how many inches go on. At Angi's and HomeAdvisor's per-board-foot rates, each extra inch adds $0.60 to $1.60 per square foot for open-cell and $1.30 to $3.10 for closed-cell. Measure the surface being sprayed, not the home's floor area.
- [Spray Foam Insulation Cost per Board Foot](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/spray-foam-insulation-cost-per-board-foot/): A board foot is one square foot of foam one inch thick, so board feet equal sprayed area times thickness in inches. Angi and HomeAdvisor give installed ranges of $0.60 to $1.60 per board foot for open-cell and $1.30 to $3.10 for closed-cell. Some contractor sites publish narrower, lower ranges. Multiply your board feet by a quoted rate, then add minimum charges and any excluded work to compare bids.
- [Spray Foam Insulation Cost Calculator](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/spray-foam-insulation-cost-calculator/): Enter the area to be sprayed, the foam type and the thickness. The calculator multiplies area by thickness to get board feet, then applies Angi's and HomeAdvisor's national installed ranges of $0.60 to $1.60 per board foot for open-cell or $1.30 to $3.10 for closed-cell, plus any minimum charge and extra costs you enter. You can replace every rate with numbers from a real quote. The result is a planning range, not a quote.
- [Open Cell Spray Foam Cost: Prices, Thickness & Examples](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/open-cell-spray-foam-cost/): Angi and HomeAdvisor put professionally installed open-cell spray foam at $0.60 to $1.60 per board foot, where a board foot is one square foot one inch thick. Spraying 1,000 square feet to 3.5 inches is 3,500 board feet, or $2,100 to $5,600 at that range before minimum charges and extra work. Open-cell costs less per board foot than closed-cell but needs more thickness for the same R-value.
- [Closed Cell Spray Foam Cost: Prices, Thickness & Examples](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/closed-cell-spray-foam-cost/): Angi and HomeAdvisor put professionally installed closed-cell spray foam at $1.30 to $3.10 per board foot, where a board foot is one square foot one inch thick. That makes 1,000 square feet at two inches (2,000 board feet) about $2,600 to $6,200 before minimum charges and extra work. HomeGuide's per-square-foot range is $3 to $5. Closed-cell costs more than open-cell but gives more R-value per inch.
- [Open Cell vs Closed Cell Spray Foam Cost](https://sprayfoamguide.com/cost/open-cell-vs-closed-cell-spray-foam-cost/): Open-cell spray foam costs less per board foot: Angi and HomeAdvisor give $0.60 to $1.60 installed, against $1.30 to $3.10 for closed-cell. But closed-cell gives more R-value per inch, so the fair comparison is cost at the same R-value. At range midpoints, reaching about R-20 over 1,000 square feet works out to roughly $5,946 for open-cell and $7,097 for closed-cell, if both are suitable for that part of the house.

## Where spray foam goes
- [Attic Spray Foam Insulation: Cost, Foam Types & Roof Deck Risks](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/attic-spray-foam-insulation/): Attic spray foam goes in one of two places: on the attic floor, air-sealing and insulating a vented attic, or under the roof deck, turning the attic into an unvented, conditioned space. The roof-deck approach can bring ducts and equipment inside the insulated envelope, but it needs a moisture plan, a roof in good repair and the code's thermal or ignition protection. Open-cell is cheaper per board foot; closed-cell adds vapor control in cold climates. Choose the assembly first, then the foam.
- [Spray Foam Roof Deck Insulation: How It Works, Costs & Risks](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/spray-foam-roof-deck-insulation/): Spraying foam on the underside of the roof sheathing makes the attic part of the conditioned house: the vents are closed and the foam becomes the air barrier and insulation. It works when the roof is sound and the assembly is designed for the climate. Building Science Corporation says only closed-cell foam should be used in climate zones 5 and higher, and DOE says open-cell under a deck in those zones needs a Class II vapor retarder. Fix leaks first; foam can hide them.
- [Vented vs Unvented Attic: Which Is Better With Spray Foam?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/vented-vs-unvented-attic-spray-foam/): A vented attic is insulated at the attic floor and ventilated above it; an unvented attic is insulated and air-sealed at the roof deck, usually with spray foam, so the attic sits inside the conditioned space. Unvented makes the most sense when ducts or equipment are in the attic or the roof is hard to vent. It costs more: DOE says an unvented attic can have 10% to 60% more surface area to insulate than a vented one. Vented attics are simpler and dry more easily.
- [Crawl Space Spray Foam Insulation: Where to Apply It, Cost & Moisture Risks](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/crawl-space-spray-foam/): In a crawl space, spray foam goes either on the perimeter walls of a sealed (unvented) crawl space or on the underside of the floor above a vented one. Closed-cell foam is the usual choice because crawl spaces are damp. DOE gives 1.5 inches of closed-cell or 5.5 inches of open-cell as the thickness at which foam serves as the air barrier under a floor. Spray foam does not replace a ground vapor retarder, drainage or moisture control; fix water problems first.
- [Spray Foam Basement Walls: Best Foam, Cost & Moisture Risks](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/spray-foam-basement-walls/): Yes, closed-cell spray foam is commonly applied directly to the inside of concrete or block basement walls, where it insulates, air-seals and limits vapor reaching the cold wall. DOE's retrofit guidance says to fix water and moisture problems first, use closed-cell foam to the code-required R-value, and cover it with the thermal or ignition barrier the code requires. Spray foam is not waterproofing. Open-cell foam is generally not used against below-grade walls.
- [Spray Foam Rim Joists: Cost, Thickness & How to Insulate Them](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/spray-foam-rim-joists/): The rim joist, where the floor framing sits on the foundation, is a common air-leak spot, and spray foam seals and insulates it in one step. Closed-cell foam is the usual choice. DOE gives a finished thickness of 1.5 inches for closed-cell or 5.5 inches for open-cell for the foam to act as an air barrier. The foam should connect the foundation, sill, rim board and subfloor. Small rim-joist jobs often cost more per board foot because of contractor minimums.
- [Spray Foam Insulation for Exterior Walls: Types, Cost & Installation](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/spray-foam-insulation-for-exterior-walls/): Spray foam fills exterior wall cavities and air-seals them in one step. Open-cell is cheaper and fills a 2x6 cavity well; closed-cell gives more R-value in a shallow 2x4 cavity and slows vapor. It is easiest in new construction with open studs; in existing walls DOE's retrofit guidance involves removing interior finishes, checking cavities for leaks and repairing the water-control layer first. Cavity R-value is not whole-wall R-value, because studs bridge the insulation.
- [Barndominium Spray Foam Insulation: Best Type, Cost & Condensation Control](https://sprayfoamguide.com/applications/barndominium-spray-foam-insulation/): In a metal-skinned barndominium, the main job of spray foam is to stop warm, humid indoor air from reaching cold metal panels, where it condenses. Closed-cell foam is usually specified against metal roof and wall panels because it gives more R-value per inch and slows water vapor; one consultant's moisture modeling found closed-cell worked without a vapor retarder in climate zones 2A, 4A and 6A, while open-cell needed one. Steel purlins and girts still bridge the insulation, and living and shop areas may need different treatment.

## Spray foam vs other insulation
- [Spray Foam vs Fiberglass Insulation: Which Is Better for Your Home?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/compare/spray-foam-vs-fiberglass/): Fiberglass costs less, about $0.30 to $1.50 per square foot against $1 to $2 for spray foam in Angi's comparison, and performs well when paired with a separate air barrier. Spray foam insulates and air-seals in one layer, and closed-cell gives more R-value per inch. For an accessible vented attic floor, air sealing plus fiberglass is usually the better value; spray foam earns its premium at rim joists, shallow cavities and designed roof-deck assemblies.
- [Spray Foam vs Blown-In Insulation: Which Is Better for Your Home?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/compare/spray-foam-vs-blown-insulation/): Blown-in fiberglass or cellulose is usually the cheaper way to insulate an accessible vented attic floor, after the ceiling is air-sealed; HomeGuide puts blown-in at about $1.00 to $2.80 per square foot installed. Spray foam costs more but can air-seal and insulate in one layer, and it is the usual choice for an unvented attic at the roof deck. The two often go in different places, so compare finished assemblies, not unit prices.
- [Spray Foam vs Cellulose Insulation: Which Is Better for Your Home?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/compare/spray-foam-vs-cellulose/): Cellulose usually costs less and works well on air-sealed vented attic floors and as dense-pack in closed walls, which it can fill through small holes without removing drywall. Spray foam costs more but insulates and air-seals in one layer, and closed-cell gives more R-value per inch: about R-5.8 to R-6.9, against roughly R-3.2 to R-3.8 for cellulose. Choose by the assembly: attic floor, closed wall, rim joist or roof deck.
- [Spray Foam vs Mineral Wool Insulation: Cost, R-Value & Which Is Better?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/compare/spray-foam-vs-mineral-wool/): Mineral wool is noncombustible, absorbs sound well, is easy to remove later and often costs less in open stud walls; spray foam air-seals what it covers and closed-cell gives more R-value per inch. Batts are not an air barrier, so a mineral wool wall needs separate air sealing. For interior partitions and fire- or sound-sensitive walls, mineral wool is usually the first option; spray foam earns its premium at rim joists, shallow cavities and some roof and foundation assemblies.

## Problems & safety
- [Spray Foam Insulation Problems: 12 Warning Signs, Causes & What to Do](https://sprayfoamguide.com/problems/spray-foam-insulation-problems/): Spray foam problems fall into a few groups: persistent odors or poorly cured foam, gaps and shrinkage, missed coverage or thin spots, moisture and mold behind foam, hidden roof leaks, and missing code-required fire protection. Each has a different cause and fix, so identify which one you have before anyone adds more foam. If anyone has breathing problems after an installation, leave the area and get medical advice. Document the product and installation, and get an independent assessment for odor, moisture or large defects.
- [Spray Foam Off-Gassing: How Long Does It Last and What If It Smells?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/problems/spray-foam-off-gassing/): Spray foam releases vapors and aerosols while it is sprayed and cures; EPA says occupants should stay out until the specific product has cured and the space has been ventilated and cleaned. Some manufacturers recommend 24 hours for certain professional two-component foams, but EPA says it is not clear how much time is needed in every case, so there is no universal number. A lingering odor or irritation is a reason to limit exposure, get the product records and have the installation assessed.
- [Is Spray Foam Insulation Safe? Health Risks, Curing & Precautions](https://sprayfoamguide.com/problems/is-spray-foam-insulation-safe/): Spray foam can be used safely when trained installers apply the right product with proper isolation, ventilation, curing and code-required fire protection, but the uncured chemicals are hazardous and occupants should not be present during spraying. EPA says exposure to spray foam chemicals can cause asthma, sensitization, lung damage and irritation, and describes properly applied, cured foam as relatively inert. There is no universal safe re-entry time; follow the specific product's written instructions.
- [Spray Foam Insulation and Mold: Can It Cause, Prevent or Hide Mold?](https://sprayfoamguide.com/problems/spray-foam-insulation-mold/): Spray foam does not cause mold by itself, and it does not make a house mold-proof. Mold needs persistent moisture on materials such as wood, paper-faced drywall or dust. Correctly installed foam can cut the humid air leaks that cause condensation, but it can also hide wet sheathing or slow drying if it is sprayed over damp material or used in the wrong assembly. If you see stains, damp wood or a musty smell, find and fix the water source before adding or removing insulation.

## DIY spray foam
- [DIY Spray Foam Insulation](https://sprayfoamguide.com/diy/diy-spray-foam-insulation/): DIY spray foam makes the most sense for small air-sealing jobs with a product made for that task, not for whole attics, roof decks or exterior walls. One-component cans, low-pressure two-part kits and professional high-pressure rigs are different products with different hazards; EPA says high-pressure systems are applied by professional installers and that DIY kit users often lack awareness of the hazards. For rim joists, sealed rigid foam board is often simpler, and large jobs deserve professional quotes.

## Hiring a contractor
- [How to Choose a Spray Foam Contractor](https://sprayfoamguide.com/contractors/how-to-choose-a-spray-foam-contractor/): Choose a spray foam contractor by checking the whole installation process, not the sales pitch: legal identity and any required license, current insurance, who will actually spray, a moisture and substrate survey, the exact foam product and thickness, a written safety and re-entry plan, inspection and warranty terms, and an itemized all-in price. If a contractor cannot explain why their foam belongs in your roof, wall or foundation and how occupants will be protected, don't sign.
- [Questions to Ask a Spray Foam Contractor](https://sprayfoamguide.com/contractors/spray-foam-contractor-questions-to-ask/): Ask questions that produce documents, not reassurance: who will spray and what training they have, where the insulation boundary is, which exact product and minimum thickness, how moisture and drying are handled, how people and pets will be kept out and when you can safely return, what fire protection is required, how thickness will be verified, and what the itemized price excludes. The five answers that matter most are the boundary, the product, the moisture plan, occupant protection and what counts as a finished job.
- [Insulation Contractors Near Me](https://sprayfoamguide.com/contractors/insulation-contractors-near-me/): The right insulation contractor near you is the one qualified for your specific problem, which is not always a spray foam company. A vented attic floor is usually a job for an air-sealing and blown-in specialist; a roofline or rim-joist air seal may suit a foam installer; a finished wall may call for dense-pack cellulose; and a wet basement needs moisture work first. Verify the company does the work itself, and compare at least one alternative material.
- [Attic Insulation Contractors](https://sprayfoamguide.com/contractors/attic-insulation-contractors/): Hire for the attic system your home needs. A conventional vented attic usually calls for ceiling air sealing plus blown cellulose or fiberglass, from a contractor who documents air-sealed penetrations, baffles and settled depth. An unvented roofline is a different job for an experienced spray foam installer who can document moisture control, the code path and fire protection. Decide which attic you want first; DOE notes an unvented attic can mean more surface to insulate.

## Codes & technical
- [Spray Foam Insulation and the Building Code](https://sprayfoamguide.com/technical/spray-foam-insulation-building-codes/): In the 2021 International Residential Code, spray foam falls under Section R316 (Foam Plastic). Foam generally has to be separated from living space by a 15-minute thermal barrier such as 1/2-inch gypsum board (R316.4). In attics and crawl spaces entered only to service utilities, a lighter ignition barrier is allowed instead (R316.5.3 and R316.5.4). Products tested under ICC-ES acceptance criteria AC377 Appendix X can omit or replace those barriers under the conditions in their evaluation report. Other sections govern unvented attics (R806.5), crawl spaces (R408), vapor retarders (R702.7) and required R-values (IECC Table R402.1.3). The 2024 IRC renumbers the foam plastic section to R303, and states and cities adopt different editions with their own amendments.

## Contractor directory
- [Spray foam contractors by state](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/): installers whose own websites we checked for spray foam work, with matched state licenses where found.
- [Spray foam contractors in Alabama](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/alabama/): 42 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Arizona](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/arizona/): 35 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Arkansas](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/arkansas/): 12 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in California](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/california/): 97 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Colorado](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/colorado/): 36 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Connecticut](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/connecticut/): 17 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in District of Columbia](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/district-of-columbia/): 4 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Florida](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/florida/): 161 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Georgia](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/georgia/): 52 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Idaho](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/idaho/): 14 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Illinois](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/illinois/): 30 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Indiana](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/indiana/): 31 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Iowa](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/iowa/): 29 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Kansas](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/kansas/): 17 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Kentucky](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/kentucky/): 25 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Louisiana](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/louisiana/): 35 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Maryland](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/maryland/): 18 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Massachusetts](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/massachusetts/): 21 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Michigan](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/michigan/): 23 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Minnesota](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/minnesota/): 24 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Mississippi](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/mississippi/): 17 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Missouri](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/missouri/): 29 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Nebraska](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/nebraska/): 14 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Nevada](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/nevada/): 19 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in New Jersey](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/new-jersey/): 5 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in New Mexico](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/new-mexico/): 10 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in New York](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/new-york/): 72 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in North Carolina](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/north-carolina/): 80 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Ohio](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/ohio/): 43 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Oklahoma](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/oklahoma/): 29 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Oregon](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/oregon/): 20 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Pennsylvania](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/pennsylvania/): 16 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Rhode Island](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/rhode-island/): 12 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in South Carolina](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/south-carolina/): 52 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Tennessee](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/tennessee/): 53 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Texas](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/texas/): 220 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Utah](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/utah/): 16 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Virginia](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/virginia/): 27 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Washington](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/washington/): 27 listed
- [Spray foam contractors in Wisconsin](https://sprayfoamguide.com/spray-foam-contractors/wisconsin/): 43 listed

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